2023
Konstfack, Sweden
Duration: 3 months
collaboration with Fjällräven
rethinking an icon - a regenerative Kånken, circular life cycles, regenerative design
How can the iconic Kånken backpack become not only circular in its material use, but through this circularity be regenerative?
Kånken Re:Gen
Using the iconic Kånken backpack as an entry point for designed artefacts as part of systemic change, this project focused on redesigning the Kånken to not only fit into circular material loops, but, by doing so, be regenerative.
Through the lens of the Ecoliteracy Principles and Sustainable Development Goals, I redesigned the iconic Kånken backpack to be regenerative in material use and fully disassemblable.
Beyond Sustainability: Regenerative
The outcome is a backpack with padded straps, a roll top closure, multiple internal compartments and a leather bottom where extra strength and durability are needed.
Kånken Classic
Kånken was created in 1978 to help prevent back problems among Swedish school children.
material: Vinylon F: 100% vinylon
webbing: 100% polypropylene
trim: metal
individual components: 36
types of material: 9
Kånken Re:Gen
Kånken Re:Gen is designed to be regenerative in its material loops, and where that’s not possible, the materials can be reused many lifetimes.
material: 100% hemp
webbing: 100% hemp
trim: metal
base: leather
individual components: 32
types of material: 3
Hemp
“90% of products in use today could theoretically be substituted by hemp.”
- ECO-CHIC The Fashion Paradox
Hemp is a fast-growing crop with no need for fertilizer, needs 1/5 water compared to cotton production, returns 60 - 70% of the nutrients it uses from the soil, is biodegradable, and produces durable fibres with 3 - 4 times the tensile strength of cotton.
Leather
Natural leather is currently the best option for the
bottom of the Kånken Re:Gen.
The longevity and durability of most faux leathers are not as high as natural leather. They are difficult to recycle, often need a backing fixed with a synthetic, non-biodegradable binding agent, and if made of PET will shed microplastics that are environmentally harmful.
No Zippers
Zippers are often made from multiple materials fixed together. The production is energy and
resource-intensive, longevity and durability are low, and it will often end up in a landfill where toxic chemicals leak into soil, water, and air.
Background
Substantial transformation is required for enabling the systemic changes necessary to reach the Sustainable Development Goals in 2030.
The end-of-life and after-life of products and their disposal pose serious threats to planetary - and therefore human – health, in the present and the future.
A crucial aspect of dealing with the detrimental consequences of consumption habits is to shift from a ‘take–make–waste’ mindset to circular and regenerative thinking.
Fjällräven
founded: 1960
founder: Åke Nordin
“The more people experience nature, the more likely they are to care for it.”
Fjällräven, ‘Our History’
Sustainability is incredibly important to Fjällräven, as “nature is in our DNA. we simply can’t deviate from it. without it, we’d be nothing. It is our past, present, and future. it’s our forever.”
Fjällräven, ‘Our History’
Fjällräven supports multiple environmental efforts through their Arctic Fox programme, which originated as a conservation effort for the Arctic Fox - the name and icon of the brand.
Collaboration
This project focused on creating designs and transition strategies for positive systems-level change in collaboration with Fjällräven.
The aim of the project was to build on Fjällräven’s existing values and goals, translate these into a product and surrounding system that can create new benefits for Fjällräven, for the planet, and pave the way for Fjällräven to go beyond climate neutral and become a regenerative business.
Life Cycle
The life journey of the Kånken Re:Gen is based on circularity and regeneration, with maintenance, refurbishment, and dyeing the top with local dyes from Fjällräven’s biggest markets around the world, or using the leather bottom for a bag, wallet, or similar, as possibilities.
Key Points
- end-of-life and after-life of products
- shift from ‘take–make–waste’ mindset to
circular and regenerative thinking - designed artefacts as part of systemic
change
Constraints
- longevity, durability
- visual language of Fjällräven Kånken
- designed for disassembly
- circular and regenerative in material use
Opportunity
Components of the redesign can be applied to
other Fjällräven products
First Iteration
All three mockups are investigating alternative openings, patterns for material reduction, and potential strengthening of vulnerable areas:
- side seams covered by pockets
- bottom side doubling as back strap holder
Second Iteration
- elongated front straps
- front and side pockets at the same height
- drawstring + top lid
- roll top with daisy chains and buckles on sides
- back straps sewn into the bottom fold
- side straps run along the bottom, creating extra protection on a valuable part
Third Iteration
- replaceable bottom
- side pockets
- double inner back pocket
- double inner front pocket
- roll top and buckle closure
The top is made of one continuous piece with one
seam on the side, protected by a pocket.
Back bottom strap + regulator is sewn into
bottom.
Ecoliteracy Principles
Sustainable Development Goals
5: Understanding how nature sustains life
2: Embracing sustainability as a community practice
3: Making the invisible visible
FJR core: without nature, we are nothing
FJR core: together, we'll make the world a better place
FJR has a responsibility for what they put into the world
Kånken as a conversation starter
12.2: By 2030, achieve the sustainable management and efficient use of natural resources
12.5: By 2030, substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling and reuse
15.5: Take urgent and significant action to reduce the degradation of natural habitats, halt the loss of biodiversity, and by 2020, protect and prevent the extinction of threatened species
The Six Ecoliteracy Principles are taught at the Master of Design Ecologies program at Konstfack — University of Arts, Crafts and Design, attended in 2022. The Six Principles are based on Goleman et al.’s five practices in the book Ecoliterate, amended by Ávila et al.
Goleman, D., Bennett, L., Barlow, Z. Ecoliterate: How educators are cultivating emotional, social, and ecological intelligence.
